Montenegro is a gem along the Adriatic Coast. It’s a Balkan country with rugged mountains overlooking a blue sea. Visitors go to enjoy nature, beaches and quaint medieval towns. We stayed along The Bay of Kotor which is in the Southwest area of the country, close to Croatia. All along the Bay are views of mountains cascading into the water, resembling fjords. Drive 30 minutes away from the bay and you hit the coast. The beaches are small and narrow but with so many beaches, you can always find a spot to lay your towel and take a dip in the ocean.

The easiest way to get around Montenegro is by car. Renting a car allows you to explore the Bay of Kotor at your own pace or drive from beach to beach along the coast. Renting a car in Montenegro is reasonably priced. We rented an automatic car for 5 days and used 1/2 tank of gas the whole time. (Our car rental costs $228 and 1/2 tank of gas costs €40.) Unfortunately, there is only one main road to get from the beaches to the Bay, and only one road to get around The Bay of Kotor, so be prepared for traffic. No matter what time it was, there was always traffic on the road. We did notice a lot of tourists hitchhiking so this is another common way to get around the country if you’re comfortable with the alternative.

We visited Montnengo in August, which seemed to be their high season. The beaches were inundated with Serbian, Russian and Croatian tourists. Mediterranean cruises dock along the Bay of Kotor but it seemed that the tourists from the cruise ships mainly stay in the town of Kotor. August was hot and sunny but you can always cool off by jumping in the water, which is never too far away.

Besides being ascetically beautiful, Montenegro is also super cheap!!! Food, lodging, sights and parking are all inexpensive. Since we rented an Airbnb, we ate at home often and saved a lot of money. The grocery stores tend to be dimly lit and not aesthetically pleasing but they have everything you need. I would recommend buying produce at farmers markets instead of the grocery store, which didn’t have the freshest looking fruits and veggies. Also, the chocolate in Montenegro can be skipped. I tried a few different types of chocolate cookies, all which had to be thrown away. Instead, satisfy your sweet tooth by picking fresh figs off the trees. They are everywhere!

Freshly picked figs from the tree at our Airbnb

Although it’s definitely one of the cheapest countries I’ve been to recently in Europe, you can still sleep and eat extravagantly in Montenegro, if you choose. Sveti Stefan and Porto Montenegro in Tivat are all about luxury. Luckily, there’s something to satisfy everyone in this small country.

Below are the places we visited on our trip to Montenegro. We stayed along the Bay of Kotor and visited the nearby beaches, but there’s plenty of National Parks and hiking you can also do in Montenegro.

KOTOR

Kotor is one of the more touristy towns since this is where the cruises dock. Nevertheless, it’s not to be missed. The views alone are worth the visit. The Old City of Kotor is a fortified town built between the 12th and 14th century and has been named a UNESCO World Natural and Historical Heritage Site. You can stroll through the many churches, cathedrals, palaces and museums all located within the walls. Or you can just shop and eat instead. However, we decided to do none of the above. Instead, we climbed the city walls, where the views were even more amazing. For €8 per person you can climb about 1350 steep and rugged steps up the city walls for unforgettable views. It was August and it was hot and the hike takes about one hour each way. Make sure to pack water but in case you run out, there are people selling drinks along the hike.

Climbing the city walls

He made it to the top but he doesn't look very happy

Views from the top (and a happier Clayton)

We didn’t plan on climbing the walls before we arrived in Kotor, so I did the climb in flip flops and a dress. Not the smartest idea so I definitely recommend good walking shoes and shorts. After you descend, you finish in the old city where you can treat yourself to a gelato (which is sold on every street corner).

SVETI STEFAN

Sveti Stefan is the name of the island that is a private hotel. Although you can’t get onto the island unless you’re a guest of the hotel, you can still enjoy the beach with a view of the island. Sveti Stefan made a name for itself when movie stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren used to visit the hotel. The first day we went to Sveti Stefan beach we arrived early and found parking at the bottom of the hill close to the beach for €2 per hour. On our second visit we had to park higher up along the road but we were able to park for free. Like many of the beaches in Europe, it’s rocky so I recommend water shoes. Don’t worry, you won’t be the only one wearing them. Unfortunately we did not have water shoes but I wish we did! The water is clear, turquoise and refreshing. It’s one of the bigger and “fancier” beaches along the coast but it’s definitely worth visiting since the hotel is iconic to this area.

TIVAT

Tivat is another town along the Kotor Bay. It is best know for Porto Montenegro, which is the “Monaco of Montenegro”. Here you will see large yachts docked in the water, high end shops and upscale restaurants. It’s here you can also rent speed boats and yachts. Another option is booking a sight seeing boat that stops at several towns along The Bay of Kotor. There are many companies that sell similar day trips so shop around for the best price. Tivat is a small, yet fun town to visit if you’re staying along the bay.

PERAST

Like Kotor, Perast is also a UNESCO world heritage sight. Perast was once the wealthiest and most powerful town on the Bay of Kotor. Today it’s still a picturesque stone town that boast wonderful fish restaurants. However, Perast is better known for the two islets that lie in front of the town. One islet is a natural island while the other is a manmade island. On the manmade islet is Our Lady of the Rocks. You can take a 10 minute boat ride to it and see the inside of the church.

If you drive to Perast, there is parking along the road shortly after the town of Perast. However, I suggest driving a few minutes further and park along the road where there aren’t many cars. We didn’t know this when we went but luckily it was busy that day so we were forced to park about 10 minutes past Perast. As we walked towards the town, we noticed a few locals forcing visitors to pay to park on the side of the road. They didn’t seem official, but rather just some intimidating guys trying to make a quick buck. They were almost yelling at the tourists telling them they had to pay. When we approached “their” parking lot by foot, they asked us where we parked. I said we walked and they left us alone. This was the only time I noticed any suspicious behavior while we were in Monegenegro so I wanted to give a heads up.

BUDVA

Another medieval town, Budva has both beaches and history. Twice we drove through Budva on our way to Sveti Stefan from Tivat and it was always crowded with both people and cars. For this reason, we were apprehensive to visit the town but in the end, I’m glad we did stop. Unlike Kotor and Perast, which are on The Bay of Kotor, Budva is a coastal town on the Adriatic. It’s larger than the other towns we had visited, but it too has a walled-in medieval town made up with narrow streets and churches. It was our last day in Montenegro and we had seen several “walled in towns” so we didn’t give Budva the time it probably deserved but I could clearly see the charm of the Old Town.

Of all the towns we visited, our two favorites were Kotor and Sveti Stefan. Both are completely different to one another. Kotor is a town with a lot of history and the views are unforgettable. Sveti Stefan is ideal for lazy beach days.

There’s no doubt you’ll enjoy Montenegro. The scenery alone will make anyone fall in love with the country. It’s easy to navigate, the people are welcoming and the prices are cheap. It’s a thumbs up for Montenegro!

Running in the Bay of Kotor

I had some great runs close to our Airbnb in Tivat. There is a long pedestrian sidewalk that goes through Porto Montenegro and leads into the small towns. Although cars are allowed on the streets once you leave the path in Porto Montenegro, I ran early enough to avoid much car or pedestrian traffic. The run is along the water the entire way so the scenery, and temperature, was perfect.

Here’s a map of Bay of Kotor so you have an idea of how it looks. Sveti Stefan is not shown but it’s south of Budva, which is at the bottom right of the map

Quick Facts

Money: Euro

Language: Montenegrian. Some (young) people speak English

Drive: right side of the road

Visas: no visa required for US and British Citizens

Voltage: 230 Volts, type C and F plugs

Time Zone: Central European (+6 from NYC)

Water: you can drink it but we played it safe and drank bottled water (it’s cheap!)

Discovering Montenegro