Faroe Islands Found
Múlafossur waterfall, which is only about 20 minutes away from the airport.
After our trip to Iceland, I started seeing picture after picture of another place with amazing scenery. It was the Faroe Islands. Like so many, I had never heard of it before but I knew I had to go. One year later I finally made it there and was able to see for myself the beauty of this place.
The Faroe Islands is made up of 18 rocky and volcanic islands. It’s located between Iceland and Nowary in the North Atlantic Ocean. The islands are connected by bridges, sub sea tunnels and ferries. The Faroe Islands is self-governing (they have their own Prime Minister) but they are part of the Kingdom of Denmark.
The islands are make up of mountains, valleys, grassy fields and steep cliffs, making it a perfect place for hikers. The numerous hiking trails are challenging yet manageable. The country is also known for its thousands of sea birds, with Puffins being the most popular. These days the Faroe Islands is becoming even more popular thanks to Instagram and there are definitely plenty of Instagram worthy photos to be taken here!
Besides the breathtaking scenery, I also enjoyed the remoteness of the country. There are only 50,000 inhabitants and outside of the capital Tórshavn, there are not many people to be seen. In fact, there are more sheep than people in Faroe Islands. The countryside is quiet with only the sounds of the birds and sheep. There’s no sense of urgency, and with the long summer days, we didn’t feel rushed or stressed to start out too early in the morning.
GETTING THERE
Atlantic Airways and Scandinavian Airlines are the only airlines that fly to The Faroe Islands. You can fly non stop to Faroe Islands from Copenhagen, Bergen, Reykjavik and Edinburg. During the summer, additional flights are added. The airport is on the islands of Vágar, which is about a 50 minute drive form the capital, Tórshavn. The airport is modern and only has two gates, making it easy for travelers. You can also get to Faroe Islands by ferry from Iceland and Denmark using the company Smyril Lines.
GETTING AROUND
Renting a car is your best option if you plan on exploring the different islands. Driving is easy since there aren’t many roads to navigate. There are only three traffic lights in the whole country and they’re all located in Tórshavn. Many local tour companies, and even hotels, can help arrange a rental car for your stay. However, renting a car is more expensive in the Faroe Islands than in other countries. A five day rental (for an automatic car) is easily $700. If you know how to drive manual, you can save some money. We rented a Skoda Yeti which is a larger car. We used it for 5 days and used 3/4 tank of gas, which cost $60 to fill up (which is actually cheap compared to other Nordic countries).
Another option is to rely on public transportation. We met some tourists who used buses and hitchhiking to get around the different islands.
We purchased a SIM card at the information center in the airport so we could use our GPS and internet while on the road. It seemed that Wifi is readily available in hotels and public places.
COSTS
Since the Faroe Islands is remote, things tend to cost more money. Accommodations, food and transportation don’t come cheap. You won’t find a hotel in Tórshavn for less than $200 per night for two people during the off season. Even Airbnbs and guesthouses on the other islands are usually a minimum of $150 per night for two people. Food in general is costly, both in restaurants and at grocery stores. Using the sub sea tunnels will cost you $15 round trip so be smart about planning your excursions.
RESTAURANTS AND FOOD
Many people asked me about the food and what my most memorable dish was but I couldn’t give a good answer. The food was fine but nothing stood out. Fish is always fresh and on the menus. Lamb is another popular dish. Tórshavn has some gourmet restaurants such as Aarstova and Barbara’s Fish House. Both have a lot of charm but unfortunately they don’t come at a charming price. We ate at Barbara’s Fish House our last night. My four male travel companions shared two fish dishes. I pre-ordered a vegetarian dish and it turned out to be a larger version of their vegetable side dish (potatoes, green and white asparagus, pearl onions with a romesco sauce). Good but nothing special.
Tórshavn is known to have an international selection of restaurants such as sushi, Indian, pizza and burgers but we didn’t try any of these restaurants. You’ll only find two fast food restaurants in Faroe Islands; Burger King and Sunset Boulevard.
If you’re staying at an Airbnb or Guesthouse, you’ll most likely have a kitchen. It’s a good idea to pack your own lunches, especially if you’re planning on hiking. Stop at the town grocery store and pick up some bread, cheeses or lunch meats. Bonus is a large grocery store chain that is an affordable option.
CLOTHING
We were in the Faroe Islands for five days mid-May and we experienced all types of weather. We had sunshine, wind, rain, and overcast skies all in one day. Be prepared with a coat, hat, gloves and some good walking boots. All the hikes we did required us to walk through waterfalls, mud and rocks and I couldn’t have done it without my Pajar boots. They have a great selection for both women and men. I wore wool leggings everyday because they kept me warm and they’re easy to pack. Don’t forget a backpack if you plan on hiking. You’ll definitely need to bring water and food on your treks.
SIGHTS
There is so much to see in Faroe Islands that planning ahead is essential to make the most of your time. If you plan to do a lot of hiking, remember that most hikes take several hours so prepare accordingly.
Below I list some of the most popular locations to visit (in my opinion):
Gásadalur and Múlafossur Waterfall
Múlafossur waterfall is iconic to Faroe Islands
Gásadalur is located on the island of Vágar and it’s in this town you will find Múlafossur waterfall. If you’ve seen photos of Faroe Islands, you’ve most likely have seen photos of this waterfall cascading into the ocean. It’s about 12 minutes away from the airport by car. Follow signs to Gásadalur and once you pass through the tunnel you will soon see a sign on your left side that says Múlafossur. Park your car in front of the sign or at the parking lot 50 meters away and walk 2 minutes to the waterfall. You can get beautiful views and photos from this vantage point. Alternatively, you can hike to this waterfall but I recommend saving time and going straight from the airport since it’s so close and it’s a quick and easy excursion.
Bour
The town of Bour is small, but very charming
On your way to Gásadalur, stop in the small village of Bour. We were there on a sunny day and thought it was so quaint. It takes all of 5 minutes to walk through. The church, a small waterfall that runs through the village and grass roof houses are very charming when the sun is shining.
Sørvágsvatn/Leitisvatn
If you stay in Vágar (which we did for two nights), Lake Sørvágsvatn is another location to visit at this time since it’s located on Vágar. This is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands and is dubbed “the lake over the ocean”. This lake is known for its optical illusion; it sits only 90 feet above sea level, but with the perfect camera angle, it could look as if it’s hundreds of hundreds of feet high. If you want to see the optical illusion, the hike will take you one hour there and one hour back starting in the town of Midvágur. (Don’t do as we did - we did not start in Midvágur and ended up taking a path along the lake which is a much longer and muddier path. On the way back we took the correct patch and saved a lot of time and wear on our boots.)
From here you can also hike to Bøsdalafossur waterfall which is where the lake empties out into the ocean.
Mykines
Unfortunately not our photo….details below
This is the island of the puffins. Need I say more?
Ok, I will. Mykines is the most western island of the Faroe Islands. It’s the home to thousands of birds, making it a birdwatchers delight, especially during the summer months. It’s a must see for anyone visiting The Faroe Islands. Or so they say. Unfortunately for us, we never made it to Mykines. We booked the ferry to Mykines twice and both times the ferry was cancelled due to high seas (even though both days had great weather and many boats were going out of the harbor). It’s recommended you book in advance to ensure you get a seat on the ferry. If they cancel the trip after you have booked, you will get refunded. Before you catch your ferry, check the website that morning to make sure it’s going out. You can book, and stay updated, at www.mykines.fo
We visited the Faroe Islands in May, during puffin season, and we just expected to see puffins. I guess mother nature had other plans. Hopefully you’ll have better luck! Let me know in the comments if you made it out to Mykines and please share your puffin pictures!
The ferry to Mykines leaves from Sovágur. When you return to Sovágur after spending the day in Mykines, stop at Guesthouse Hugo/Cafe Fjordje. This cafe is close to the harbor and they serve a lovely salmon dish. Alternatively, you can pop in for coffee and a warm apple pie or rhubarb tart. This may have been my favorite dining experience during our trip.
Drangarnir
Drangarnir is the name for the two seastacks located between the island of Vágar and the islet of Tindhólmur. The hike takes about 2 hours each way and it was challenging yet rewarding. Since the time we hiked out there, it is no longer possible to hike on your own. Land owners were becoming upset with all the tourists trekking through their land so you now need the landowner’s permission. You can join a guided hike which goes out Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays at noon and cost a steep price of €73 per person ($81). For booking visit hiking.fo
Saksun
Saksun lies along the northwest coast of Streymoy. It is one of the most picturesque places in Faroe Islands. Saksun is located inside a natural amphitheater. It’s surrounded by high mountains and at the foot of the village is a lagoon. During low tide, it’s possible to walk from the village out to the sea. However, the tides can change rather quickly so it’s recommended that you check the tide times before walking out.
An Instagram famous house of Faroe Islands is located in Saksun. However, due to its popularity, the owner has gotten upset with trespassers taking photos of his house and you can no longer walk down the slope to get a picture.(I’m seeing a pattern of irate landowners in Faroe Islands) The house can only be seen from below by the lagoon. Even if you can’t get a good picture of the house, visiting Saksun is still a must.
Gjogv
The word Gjogv means “gorge” and the town is aptly named since a gorge runs through it. With mountains on three sides, the gorge actually divides this small town into two. Many visitors journey here to enjoy the scenery and to get great photos. We drove to Gjovg on a windy and rainy day so we didn’t stay long, but we could see why many visitors make a trip here. It really is an idyllic town. Gjogv is located at the northeast tip of Eysturoy. Close to here you can also see Slættaratindur, which is the tallest mountain in Faroe Islands.
Tórshavn
This is one of the smallest capitals in the world and it comes with a lot of character. The center of town is situated alongside the harbor and we were lucky to be there on a beautiful May day. All of the cafes and restaurants along the harbor set up tables for people to enjoy the sunshine and a local beer. From the harbor you can stroll through Tinganes, which is one of the world’s oldest courts dating back to Viking times. The current Prime Minister still has his office there.
Down the street from city center is Reyn, where the oldest houses of Tórshavn are located. Stroll through the narrow cobblestone streets and admire these tiny houses with their infamous grass roofs. People still live in these houses today so be respectful when walking through the streets.
FITNESS
It’s easy to run in Faroe Islands. There’s usually one main road that goes for miles and miles so you can run as long as you want without getting lost. It was just me and the sheep when I ran in Vágar. Tórshavn has recently become more fitness conscious and I saw many people running there. They recently opened a big sports complex and there’s even an outdoor track that you can run to from the city center. Alternatively, Torshavn also has several gyms if you prefer.
Don’t be silly and run in 42 degree weather in the rain and wind as I did on my last day. I came home only to be sick in bed with a chest cold for several days.
FINAL THOUGHTS
The Faroe Islands may not be too popular yet, but thanks to social media, it’s on the rise. I recommend going sooner than later so you can enjoy its beauty before it becomes overrun with tourists. I had expected Faroe Islands to be similar to Iceland in geography, but after having been there, I find it more similar to Scotland or Ireland. It has endless green fields and a lot of sheep. If you enjoy spending time with nature and going on epic hikes, then Faroe Islands is waiting to be discovered. Just be prepared to explain exactly where the Faroe Islands is located since few people seem to know.
Quick Facts
Official website to help plan your trip: https://visitfaroeislands.com
Population: around 80,000
Language: Faroese and Danish although most people also speak English
Currency: Faroese Króna (DKK) which is the same as the Danish Krone
Electrical Voltage: 220V; European two-pin plugs
Drive on the right side of the road
No vaccinations required
No visa needed for travelers coming from USA, Canada and UK. All other passport holders should check to see if they need a visa
Time: GMT (winter); GMT+1 (summer)
Phone: I recommend getting a SIM card when you arrive at the airport. WIFI is available at most hotels and public places (97% of the locals have WiFi in their home)
Their main industry is tourism and fishing
They are one of the leading nations in producing sustainable electricity with over 50% of their electricity coming from renewable energy sources